What’s outside is your key to what’s inside a bottle of wine. The labels tell you essentials like the producer, the grape type, alcohol content, growing region and more.
Why is a wine’s place of origin so important? It starts with the French concept of terroir. Literally the French word for soil, terroir (tehr-WAHR) refers not only to the type of soil in which grapevines grow, but other factors that can influence the character of the grapes, including climate, wind and altitude. Those products made outside of name-protected regions may be of high quality, too, but they will not be the same as those that hail from within a name-protected region. That’s why, by law, such products must be called something else – sparkling wine rather than Champagne, and Meritage rather than Bordeaux.
The French started their Appellation d’Origine Controlee (AOC) system in 1935. The system has evolved over the years, and now wine with an AOC designation must meet strict criteria for seven categories that include everything from the patch of land on which the grapes are grown to the maximum yield of grapes per crop. Since 1979, all wines under consideration for AOC status must be approved by a tasting panel. Other countries have followed suit. In 1978, America launched the American Viticultural Area (AVA) system. Unlike France, America’s system is limited to geography, but it ensures, among other things, that a bottle labeled Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is made predominantly from grapes grown in Napa Valley. There are now more than 200 recognized AVAs in the country.
When it comes to wine, the tricky thing with the AOC/AVA system is that an appellation can also be carved up into many sub-appellations. For example, in France, wine can be from Bordeaux in general, or from one of its sub-regions, such as Pomerol, St. Emilion, Graves or Medoc. In America, a region such as Napa Valley also has its sub-regions, including Oakville, Stags Leap, and Yountville. Wines within a designated region are likely to share basic characteristics. After trying several, you can decide whether or not it’s worth your while to sample more wines within that region.
For example, perhaps you have been disappointed by Pinot Grigio, but a friend serves you one that exhibits a depth and finesse you’ve never before enjoyed in this wine. Grab that bottle and take a really close look. Try a few more Pinot Grigios from that region, and if you like them, you’ll know that’s generally a style of Pinot Grigio you’ll enjoy. Another example would be to try a variety of Cabernet Sauvignon including one from the general area of Sonoma, Napa Valley and another from a sub-region such as Rutherford or Oakville. Then, throw in a Cab-based wine from Bordeaux, perhaps from the Medoc and Graves appellations. You’ll then be able to get a better handle on what region produces the varietal in the style that best suits you.
There’s no need to memorize exactly what the designations on wine bottles mean. Simply know that if you spot them, they’re an authentic link to place and, in most cases, standards and tradition. From now on, start casting a keen eye to where your favorite sips come from. Soon, you’ll start developing a new appreciation for what goes into making the world’s great wines. Here is the cheat-sheet you’ll need:
• AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controlee), sometimes abbreviated to AC: the French system of geographically based wine regulation. Literally, “Controlled Appellation of Origin,” this system ensures that wines labeled by a particular region are, in fact, grown and produced in that region. In France, a wine labeled with AOC must also follow other guidelines, such as the varieties of grapes in the wine, the minimum alcohol content and winemaking practices.
• DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata): the Italian version of the French AOC system. DOCG is a second, higher designation for Italian wine, with even more demanding laws.
• DO (Denominacion de Origen): the Spanish version of the AOC system. DOCa is a second, higher designation for Spanish wine.
• DOC (Denominacao de Origem Controlada): the Portuguese version of the AOC system. Portugal was the first country to implement such a system, in 1756.
• AVA (American Viticultural Area): an American system that controls the geographical names used on labels. Unlike the French AOC system, however, the AVA system does not regulate other matters, such as grapes used, alcohol content and winemaking practices.
